Jerusalem!

Jerusalem .... Holy site for three of the world's major religions. Within throwing distance you have:
* 3rd holiest site of Islam - Al Aqsa Mosque and Dome of the Rock
* Judaism's holiest site (Western Wall and Temple Mount)
* the site of Jesus crucifixion and resurrection!

Jerusalem is truly a wonder. The Old city is a walled area with the holy sites, teeming markets, alleyways and tunnels criss crossing and a small number of entrance ways. To the north is Damascus gate ... so called because it heads north towards the Syrian capital.

Outside the walled Old City are west Jerusalem with modern apartments and shopping centers, plus East Jerusalem which has traditionally been Arab/Palestinian but where increasing numbers of Jews are moving.

Within the old city are thousands of Orthodox Jews, young and old Palestinians working or selling at tiny markets, Muslim woman in tightly wrapped head scarves and full length dresses, markets selling crafts, spice, vegetable and meat markets. As well as being a tourist center, many people live in the old city. Its all kind of amazing.

The police and IDF also have a strong presence. All the gates and religious areas are heavily patrolled. Soldiers carry submachine guns with truncheon at the ready. Israeli police or military are everywhere in Jerusalem. Their jeeps and military outposts are all over - night and day.

I have the impression the military keeps a lid on things but there is much tension below the surface. In my first 24 hours here I saw two different fist fights break out among young Palestinian men.